DIY GUIDE · GARDEN & OUTDOOR

How to lay a patio yourself
Two weekends for a 3 × 4 m patio. £724–£1,129 in slabs, aggregate, sand, cement and kit.

Set out, dig, compact the sub-base, lay on a full mortar bed with a fall, joint and cure.

DIFFICULTY
Hard
part of the job only
TIME
Two weekends
a weekend to dig and build the sub-base, a weekend to lay, then curing time before jointing and use
MATERIALS
£724–£1,129
12 m² of concrete or natural stone slabs, sub-base, sharp sand, cement, jointing compound and hand tools
A PRO CHARGES
£70–£180
typically £120
  • Every step, start to finish
  • Checked October 2026 — sources at the end
  • Honest about when to call a pro

FIRST, THE HONEST ANSWER

Do it yourself, or get a gardener?

Do it yourself if…

  • The patio is on level or gently sloping ground and will not hold back any soil
  • You can keep the finished surface well below the house's damp-proof course
  • You are fit for a lot of digging and lifting, with a helper for the slabs
  • The layout needs few cuts, or you can have slabs cut for you

Get a pro if…

  • The site slopes enough to need steps, a raised terrace or a retaining wall
  • The patio would be close to or above the damp-proof course, or over drains and manholes
  • The design needs many cuts in porcelain or stone with a disc cutter
  • The ground is soft made-up fill, clay that moves, or full of roots from nearby trees

Safety first

  • Do not dry-cut paving with a disc saw. HSE says cut-off saws on paving produce very high levels of silica dust; reduce cuts in the design, use a block splitter, have slabs cut off site, or use water suppression and a proper mask.
  • Lift slabs and bags the way HSE's good handling guidance sets out — close to the body, knees slightly bent, no twisting — and lift large slabs with two people.
  • Wear gloves and eye protection when mixing mortar; wet cement burns skin, so wash it off straight away.
  • Wear ear protection, boots and gloves with a plate compactor, and keep feet clear of the plate.
  • Find out where drains, pipes and cables run before you dig, and never pave over a manhole or inspection chamber.
  • Stop laying below 5°C on a falling thermometer, as the paving maker advises, and in heavy rain.

Stop here: Retaining walls, house levels, drainage and dry cutting

A patio that holds back a slope becomes a retaining structure, and a failure moves a weight of soil towards whatever is below it. Raising ground against the house risks bridging the damp-proof course; the paving maker requires the finished surface at least 150 mm below it. In England, new hard surfacing over 5 m² in a front garden must be porous or drain to a permeable area within the property, or it needs planning permission; Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own rules. HSE treats dry cutting of paving with a cut-off saw as high-risk silica dust work. How to hire a patio layer →

MATERIALCOVERAGEFOR THIS JOB
Paving slabsConcrete, stone or porcelain, plus 5–10 per cent extra12 m² for a 3 × 4 m patio
Type 1 sub-base aggregate100 mm compacted, in layers no more than 75 mmAbout 1.2 m³, three jumbo bags
Sharp sand and cementMortar bed of 1 cement to 4 sharp sand, 30–40 mm thickOne jumbo bag of sand and about six 25 kg bags of cement
Jointing compound or exterior groutFor 3–5 mm or wider joints, as the slab maker specifiesOne or two tubs for 12 m²
Priming slurry (porcelain only)Brushed onto the back of each slabAs the product states

How deep to dig and how much to order

36 m² of wall → 0.9 L for 2 coats. Buy about 1 L.

Dig depth = slab thickness + mortar bed + sub-base. For 22 mm stone, a 35 mm bed and 100 mm of sub-base, that is 157 mm below the finished level. Sub-base volume = area × 0.1 m; a 3 × 4 m patio is 12 m² × 0.1 = 1.2 m³. Fall: at 1 in 80, a patio 4 m long drops 4 ÷ 80 = 0.05 m, or 50 mm, from house to garden edge.

Measure your slab's actual thickness; natural stone varies. Order aggregate by volume and check the bag's stated weight or volume, as bulk bags differ.

Concrete, natural stone or porcelain

Concrete slabs are the cheapest and most forgiving. Natural stone such as sandstone varies in thickness and needs more care to lay level. Porcelain is thin, hard and stain-resistant but must go on a full mortar bed with a priming slurry on the back, and is the hardest to cut.

The sub-base

For most domestic patios the paving maker gives a sub-base of 100 mm of Type 1 aggregate, well graded from 40 mm down to dust, compacted in layers no thicker than 75 mm. Poor ground or heavier loads need more; inferior fill settles and moves with frost.

A full mortar bed, not five spots

The maker's guide specifies a full, wet bed of 1 part cement to 4 parts sharp sand, 30–40 mm thick, under the whole slab. Five dabs of mortar leave hollows that collect water, rock, crack and stain.

The fall

A patio must shed water away from the house. The maker's figures are a minimum longitudinal fall of 1 in 80 and a cross fall of 1 in 40, built into the sub-base so the mortar bed is even.

Joints and jointing

Joints of 3–5 mm with spacers suit porcelain; wider joints suit riven stone. Fill them with a proper jointing compound or exterior grout, never a dry sand and cement mix brushed in, which stains and does not make a true joint.

Front gardens in England

Under the permitted development rules, new hard surfacing of more than 5 m² between the front of the house and the road must be porous, or drain to a lawn or border within the property; otherwise it needs planning permission. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own rules.

Order 5–10 per cent extra slabs and mix the contents of several packs so colour variation is spread across the patio.
Plan the layout to whole slabs wherever you can; every cut you design out is dust you do not make.

THE PART THAT DECIDES THE FINISH

Before you dig — by the ground you have

The ground decides the depth of dig and the sub-base. Find yours and plan the levels before anything is ordered.

Lawn on firm, well-drained soil

The straightforward case.

  1. Mark out the patio with pegs and string, and check square by the diagonals
  2. Dig out to the depth of the sub-base plus the mortar bed plus the slab thickness
  3. Remove all turf, roots and topsoil; organic matter must not stay under the sub-base
  4. Firm the base of the dig with the compactor before laying aggregate
Next to the house

The most common patio position, and the most rule-bound.

  1. Find the damp-proof course in the house wall and mark it
  2. Set the finished paving level at least 150 mm below it, as the paving maker requires
  3. Fall the patio away from the house so water runs to the garden
  4. Keep airbricks clear and never cover or raise levels round them
Soft, clay or made-up ground

Ground that moves, holds water or was filled in.

  1. Dig test holes to see what is below; new-build gardens often hide rubble and fill
  2. Use a geotextile membrane under the sub-base if you doubt the ground
  3. Allow a deeper sub-base on clay that moves
  4. If the ground is very soft or full of fill, get advice before building on it
A gently sloping garden

A fall you can walk on easily.

  1. Use the existing slope to give the patio its fall where you can
  2. Set the levels with pegs and a string line before you dig
  3. Cut into the high side rather than building up the low side with loose fill
  4. If the low side needs a retaining edge or steps, stop: that is a retaining structure
Replacing an old patio

Lifting worn or sunken paving.

  1. Lift the old slabs and break out the old bedding
  2. Check the old sub-base; it is often too thin or missing
  3. Re-dig and rebuild the sub-base rather than relaying on the old one
  4. Take the old paving and rubble to the household waste recycling centre or a skip

THE JOB

How to lay a patio, in order

  1. Plan the levels and set out

    2 hr

    Do the checks above for your ground. Decide the finished level, at least 150 mm below the damp-proof course if it meets the house, and the direction of fall away from it. Set out the patio with pegs and string, check the diagonals are equal for square, and set level pegs showing the finished height with the fall built in.

    • Plan the layout on paper to whole slabs to minimise cuts
    • Mark the fall on the pegs with a level and a measured offset
    • Check where downpipes and drains are before deciding the fall

    Mistake to avoid: Setting out without fixing the finished level against the damp-proof course first. You discover the problem when the patio is down.

  2. Dig out to the right depth

    6 hr

    Dig out the whole area to the depth from the calculator above, removing turf, topsoil and roots. Keep the base of the dig parallel to the finished surface, so the fall is built into the dig. Firm the formation with the plate compactor.

    • Use a straight board and level across the pegs to check depth as you go
    • Pile topsoil separately; it is useful elsewhere in the garden
    • Keep the edges of the dig clean and vertical

    Mistake to avoid: Leaving soft topsoil or roots under the sub-base. It rots and the patio sinks in patches.

  3. Build and compact the sub-base

    4 hr

    Spread Type 1 aggregate in layers no thicker than 75 mm and compact each one with several passes of the plate compactor before adding the next, until you have the full depth. Shape the falls into the sub-base so the mortar bed above is an even thickness. The maker's tolerance is within +5 and −10 mm of the specified level.

    • Damp aggregate compacts better than bone-dry
    • Run the compactor in overlapping passes, then across at right angles
    • Check levels against the string line after each layer

    Mistake to avoid: Tipping all the aggregate in at once and compacting the top. The bottom stays loose and settles under the slabs.

  4. Prepare the slabs

    1 hr

    Lay the slabs out near the patio, mixing packs so colour and texture are spread evenly. For porcelain, brush a priming slurry onto the back of each slab just before laying, as the maker requires, to bond it to the mortar. Damp the backs of natural stone slabs.

    • Lay out a dry run of the first few rows to check the pattern
    • Keep the primed slab moving to the bed; the primer must be wet when laid
    • Have spacers, mallet and level within reach

    Mistake to avoid: Laying porcelain without priming. It does not bond to the mortar and lifts or rings hollow.

  5. Lay a full mortar bed

    15 min

    Mix mortar of 1 part cement to 4 parts sharp sand to a wet, workable consistency, and spread a full bed for one slab at a time, 30–40 mm thick. Do not use dabs. Rough the surface slightly with the trowel so the slab beds down evenly.

    • Mix only what you can use in about an hour
    • Bed one slab at a time so the mortar does not skin over
    • Keep the mixing ratio consistent from batch to batch

    Mistake to avoid: Laying slabs on five spots of mortar. It saves sand, then the slabs rock, crack and stain from the water trapped beneath.

  6. Lay and tap down the slabs

    6 hr

    Start from a fixed corner or straight edge, usually against the house, and lower each slab onto the bed. Tap it down with the rubber mallet until it is level with the string and the slab beside it, with the fall running the right way. Use spacers to keep joints even, and check level and fall every few slabs.

    • Lower slabs straight down; do not slide them into place
    • Check each slab corner to corner with the level
    • Keep the string line tight and move it as you go

    Mistake to avoid: Chasing level with a pile of extra mortar under one corner. The slab is unsupported elsewhere and cracks.

  7. Clean out the joints

    30 min

    As you go, rake excess mortar out of the joints to the full depth of the slab, so the jointing material can fill the whole joint. Wipe mortar off the slab faces immediately with a damp sponge; it stains if it dries.

    • Use a pointing trowel or a piece of batten to rake joints
    • Keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge beside you
    • Cover the work if rain threatens

    Mistake to avoid: Leaving mortar smears on the face. Cement stains on stone are very hard to remove later.

  8. Let the bed cure, then joint

    Next day

    Keep off the patio while the bedding mortar sets, then fill the joints with jointing compound or exterior grout following its instructions. Press it in firmly so the joint is solid, then brush the surface clean. Never brush a dry sand and cement mix into the joints.

    • Follow the compound's own instructions for wetting the paving first
    • Work diagonally across the joints with a soft brush
    • Compress the compound into the joint with a jointing tool

    Mistake to avoid: Brushing dry sand and cement into the joints. It stains the paving and does not make a proper joint.

  9. Cure and protect

    Ongoing

    Keep foot traffic off until the bedding and joints have cured as their products specify, and cover the patio in frost or heavy rain while it does. Then sweep and rinse it clean.

    • Put up a temporary barrier to keep people and pets off
    • Avoid heavy furniture or barbecues for the first weeks
    • Check for any rocking slabs and lift and relay them early

    Mistake to avoid: Walking on it the same evening. Slabs shift on the soft bed and joints crack.

The mistakes that make a patio fail

  • A thin or uncompacted sub-base
  • Laying on five spots of mortar instead of a full bed
  • No fall, or a fall towards the house
  • Finished level too close to the damp-proof course

Stop here and get a patio layer

  • The patio needs steps, a raised terrace or a wall to hold back soil
  • It would sit close to or above the damp-proof course, cover airbricks, or go over drains and inspection chambers
  • The design needs many cuts with a disc cutter, especially in porcelain or stone
  • The ground is soft fill or moving clay, or the area is large enough that the sub-base alone is a machine job
How to hire a patio layer →

Slabs rocking or sounding hollowLaid on spots rather than a full bed, or the bed shrank. Lift the slab, clear the old mortar and relay on a full bed.
Puddles standing on the patioNo fall, or the fall built into the mortar rather than the sub-base. Small dips can be relaid; a flat patio needs relaying with a proper fall.
Patio sinking in placesA thin or poorly compacted sub-base, or organic matter left underneath. Lift the affected area, dig out, rebuild and compact the sub-base.
White staining on the slabsEfflorescence, salts drawn out of the mortar or concrete. It usually fades with weathering; brush it off dry and do not wash it in.
Cement stains on the faceMortar dropped and left to dry. Remove carefully with a product made for the paving type, tested on an offcut first.
Joints cracking or washing outDry sand and cement brushed in, or joints too shallow. Rake out and refill with jointing compound to the full depth.
Damp patches on the inside of the house wallThe patio is too close to the damp-proof course or falls towards the house. Lower the level beside the wall or add a drainage channel; get advice.
Weeds growing in the jointsJoints not fully filled. Rake out and refill with a proper jointing compound.

WHAT YOU SAVE

What it costs to do it yourself

Paving slabs, 12 m²£314–£667
Type 1 sub-base, three jumbo bags£225
Sharp sand, one jumbo bag£75
Cement, six 25 kg bags£45–£50
Jointing compound, one or two tubs£34–£68
Rubber mallet£6–£9.50
Spirit level£20–£29
String line£5–£5.75
Total, 3 × 4 m patio£724–£1,129
DIY total£724–£1,129
A patio layer charges per m²
LOW
£70
TYPICAL
£120
HIGH
£180
Patio Laying price guide →

Guide prices compiled by the Locufy team from published Irish and UK provider price lists and 2026/27 cost guides. Updated 2026.

Slabs are the swing: concrete at the bottom of the range, natural stone near the top, porcelain higher still. Add the hire of a plate compactor, delivery for bulk bags, and disposal of the dug-out soil. A patio layer prices per square metre including all of this.

RATHER NOT?

Patio layers near you, with prices shown

The ones who cover your area, nearest first, with one score from every review. No account needed to look.

Or post the job free and let them come to you.

Leave it to cure

Keep off until the bed and joints have cured as their products say, and protect it from frost and heavy rain in the meantime.

Dispose of soil and rubble properly

Take dug-out soil, turf, old paving and rubble to the household waste recycling centre, checking its rules on soil and hardcore, or use a skip or a registered waste carrier; never wash cement slurry or jointing residue into a drain.

Store leftover materials

Keep spare slabs for repairs; keep leftover jointing compound as its maker describes and bagged cement dry and off the floor.

Clean and return the kit

Wash trowels, the mixer and the mallet before the mortar sets on them, and return hired equipment clean.

Laying a small patio: questions people ask

For most domestic patios the paving maker gives 100 mm of compacted Type 1 aggregate, laid in layers no thicker than 75 mm. Poor ground or heavier use needs more.

Not for slabs on a rigid bed. The maker specifies a full mortar bed of 1 part cement to 4 parts sharp sand, 30–40 mm thick. Five spots of mortar or a loose sand bed lead to rocking and cracking.

The paving maker gives a minimum fall of 1 in 80 along the patio and 1 in 40 across it, away from the house.

At least 150 mm below it, according to the paving maker, to stop damp bridging into the wall.

Not usually for a back garden patio. In England, new hard surfacing over 5 m² in a front garden must be porous or drain to a lawn or border, or it needs permission. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own rules.

The Locufy UK price guide puts patio laying at £70–£180 per m², typically £120. Most quotes include the sub-base and materials; ask what yours covers.

MORE GUIDES

More DIY guides

Building a low garden wallLaying turfPutting up a garden shedBuilding and filling a raised bedClearing an overgrown gardenKeeping a garden maintainedMowing a lawnFeeding and treating a lawn
All 90 DIY guides →How to hire a patio layer →Patio Laying price guide →Patio layers on Locufy →

Sources — checked October 2026

  1. Marshalls — porcelain paving installation guide: sub-base, mortar bed, falls, joints, DPC
  2. HSE — construction dust: cutting paving blocks, kerbs and flags
  3. HSE — manual handling: good handling technique
  4. Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, Schedule 2 Part 1 — hard surfaces
  5. GOV.UK — permeable surfacing of front gardens: guidance
  6. GOV.UK — recycling collections and your council
  7. Toolstation — how to lay a patio (sequence)
  8. Wickes — price check: paving slabs per m²
  9. Wickes — price check: Type 1 sub-base jumbo bag
  10. Wickes — price check: sharp sand
  11. Wickes — price check: cement
  12. Wickes — price check: paving jointing compound
  13. Wickes — price check: rubber mallets
  14. Wickes — price check: spirit levels
  15. Wickes — price check: string lines