DIY GUIDE · CLEANING

How to clean windows yourself — safely
A morning for a house. €14–€70 in a squeegee kit, bucket, cloths and a pole.

Ground floor and from inside only. Wet, squeegee, detail the edges, then the frames.

DIFFICULTY
Easy
part of the job only
TIME
A morning
for the insides and the ground-floor outsides of a three-bedroom house
MATERIALS
€14–€70
a squeegee and applicator kit, a bucket, microfibre cloths and washing-up liquid
A PRO CHARGES
€35–€120
typically €60
  • Every step, start to finish
  • Checked October 2026 — sources at the end
  • Honest about when to call a pro

FIRST, THE HONEST ANSWER

Do it yourself, or get a cleaner?

Do it yourself if…

  • You are cleaning the inside of any window, standing on the floor or a stepladder
  • The outside panes are on the ground floor, reachable with your feet on the ground or a low stepladder
  • Upstairs windows tilt in, turn or reverse so you can clean the outside from inside the room
  • You can reach a conservatory or porch glass with a pole from the ground

Get a pro if…

  • The outside of upstairs windows can only be reached from a ladder
  • The windows are above a conservatory, a porch roof, a basement well or a sloping garden
  • There is a skylight, a roof window or high glazing over a stairwell
  • You live in an apartment above ground floor and the windows do not open inwards for cleaning

Safety first

  • The HSA says ladders are only for short, light work and not for 30 minutes or more in one position; do not use the top two steps of a stepladder unless it has a handrail.
  • Keep your belt buckle inside the stiles and three points of contact; move the stepladder rather than overreaching.
  • Never lean a ladder against glass, a gutter or a conservatory roof — the HSA warns these cannot bear the load.
  • Look up before raising a pole; the HSA's cleaning risk assessment flags overhead cables.
  • From inside, keep both feet on the floor. Do not kneel on sills, lean out, or remove restrictors fitted to stop falls.
  • Wet paving and wet floors are slippery; keep towels down and wear shoes with grip outside.

Stop here: Upstairs windows from outside, and any window you would need a ladder to reach

Cleaning the outside of upper windows from a ladder is work at height, which the HSA expects to be planned with the right equipment. Its guidance limits ladders to short-duration, light work with three points of contact at the working position, never leaned on glass or a gutter, and never on soft or sloping ground. Washing a window from a ladder needs both hands and a bucket, which breaks every one of those rules. The danger is real: falls from ladders cause serious and fatal injuries every year, the HSA says. Use windows that clean from inside, a pole from firm ground where the reach is genuinely short, or book a window cleaner who uses water-fed poles from the ground. How to hire a window cleaner →

MATERIALCOVERAGEFOR THIS JOB
Washing-up liquidA few drops in a bucket of waterOne bucket per side of the house
Clean waterChange it when it looks greySeveral buckets for a house
Mild detergent for framesWater and a little detergent for uPVC and aluminiumA separate bucket

How long the windows take

Time ≈ number of panes × about 4 minutes for glass, plus about 5 minutes per window for frames and sills. Count each sash, casement or fixed light as a pane, inside and out separately. Example: a three-bedroom semi with 10 windows averaging 3 panes, cleaned inside and outside on the ground floor and inside only upstairs, is roughly 45 pane-sides × 4 = 180 minutes plus 10 × 5 = 50 — just under four hours.

Doing the frames properly once a year makes the glass clean much quicker the rest of the time.

Water and a mild detergent beat sprays

One Irish window maker's own glass cleaning procedure is water with a mild detergent such as washing-up liquid, applied with clean, grit-free cloths or a sponge, rinsed off straight away with plenty of clean water and dried with a clean lint-free cloth or a squeegee. A few drops in a bucket is enough; too much soap is what leaves smears.

What never touches the glass

The same maker says never to use scrapers, razor blades, steel wool or any metal tool on glass, and that organic solvents, oils and plasticisers must not touch it either. Hard water sprayed on glass again and again can leave minerals that bond to it permanently, which is why you rinse and dry rather than leaving the glass to dry in drips.

A squeegee and an applicator

The applicator — a fluffy sleeve on a T-bar — carries the water and loosens dirt. The squeegee pulls it off in one stroke. Buy a squeegee with a sharp, soft rubber blade, and keep a spare blade; a nicked blade leaves a stripe every stroke.

Telescopic poles from the ground

The HSA's risk assessment for cleaning work at height suggests other ways of working where possible, such as extendable poles to clean high areas. A pole with a soft brush or applicator lets you clean conservatory glass and some first-floor windows from the ground. It needs care round overhead cables and a steady stance.

Window vacuums

A battery window vac sucks the water off after you wet the glass, which suits people who have never got the hang of a squeegee, and it works well on the inside of windows where drips land on sills and floors. It is a gadget, not a necessity.

Never in direct sun

The window maker warns not to clean glass in direct sunlight, because the solution dries on the glass and the dry surface can then be scratched. Work on the shady side of the house and follow the shade round as the day moves.

Wipe any glass cleaner that lands on the frame or rubber gaskets straight off; the maker asks for that on uPVC.
If a sealed unit is misted between the panes, it is a failed unit — cleaning will not touch it.

THE PART THAT DECIDES THE FINISH

Before you start — by the window and where you stand

Find each window type below. The first four are DIY jobs; the last two are where you stop and book a window cleaner.

Ground-floor windows from outside

Glass you can reach with your feet on the ground or a low stepladder on firm paving.

  1. Move plant pots, bins and garden furniture out of your way
  2. If you need a stepladder, set it on firm, level ground, fully open, facing the window
  3. Brush cobwebs and loose dirt off the frame and sill first
  4. Work on the shaded side of the house first
Inside of any window

Standing on the floor, or a stepladder for the top lights.

  1. Lay an old towel along the sill to catch drips
  2. Move ornaments, plants and anything on the sill
  3. Take down or tie back curtains, and lift blinds right up
  4. Have a stepladder for the top sash, never a chair
Tilt-and-turn or reversible windows upstairs

Windows built to let you clean the outside pane from inside.

  1. Read the window's operating instructions for the cleaning position
  2. Open it only to the cleaning position, never by overriding a restrictor on a child's or an upper window
  3. Keep both feet on the floor; do not kneel on the sill or lean out
  4. Have everything you need inside the room before you open it
Conservatory and porch glass

Glass panels and roof panes reachable with a pole from the ground.

  1. Never lean a ladder against conservatory glass, a gutter or a polycarbonate roof
  2. Clean the roof only from the ground with a pole and a soft brush
  3. Look up for overhead cables before you raise a pole
  4. Pick a cool, overcast day so the water does not dry in streaks
Upstairs windows from outside

Any pane you could only reach by ladder.

  1. Do not climb a ladder to clean them
  2. Check whether the window can be cleaned from inside instead
  3. Use a pole from the ground if the reach is genuinely short and the ground firm
  4. Otherwise book a window cleaner; see the stop card
Windows above roofs, slopes or stairwells

Over a porch roof, a basement light well, a steep garden or an internal stairwell.

  1. There is no safe ladder position for these
  2. Do not stand on a porch or extension roof
  3. Stairwell windows: do not build a platform on the stairs
  4. Book a cleaner with proper access equipment

THE JOB

How to clean windows, in order

  1. Plan the reach and the order

    10 min

    Walk round the house and sort the windows using the surfaces section above: ground floor outside, insides, tilt-and-turn upstairs, and the ones you will leave for a pro. Note which side is in shade now; start there. Gather everything at each window before you start so you are never carrying a bucket up a stepladder.

    • Shade first, sunny side later in the day
    • Do all the insides on one day and outsides on another if that is easier
    • Tell someone if you are using a stepladder outside

    Mistake to avoid: Deciding about a tricky window halfway up a ladder. Make the call on the ground.

  2. Dust and brush the frames first

    5 min per window

    Brush cobwebs, grit and dead insects off the frame, the sill and the rubber seals with a soft dry brush, and wipe the sill with a dry cloth. Grit left on the frame gets picked up by the applicator and dragged across the glass, which is how fine scratches happen. Lay a towel on the inside sill.

    • Check the drainage slots at the bottom of uPVC frames and clear them
    • Vacuum the inside tracks of sliding windows
    • Wipe away condensation from inside frames first

    Mistake to avoid: Going straight in with water. The grit on the frame becomes a grinding paste on the glass.

  3. Mix the water

    5 min

    Fill a rinsed bucket with clean, cool water and add just a few drops of washing-up liquid — enough to feel slightly slippery, not enough to foam up. Hot water dries too fast on the glass. Keep a second bucket of plain water for rinsing the applicator and cloths.

    • Less soap gives fewer smears
    • Change the water as soon as it looks grey
    • Keep the bucket on the ground, never balanced on a ladder step

    Mistake to avoid: Using a strong squirt of washing-up liquid. Excess soap leaves a film that smears every time you wipe.

  4. Wet the glass from the top down

    A minute a pane

    Dip the applicator, squeeze it so it is wet but not dripping, and scrub the glass from top to bottom, getting into the corners and along the edges. The window maker's procedure is to clean from the top down, with clean grit-free cloths or a sponge. On stubborn marks, go over them twice with the applicator rather than scrubbing harder.

    • Bird droppings: soak, wait, then wipe — never scrape
    • Work one pane at a time so it does not dry before you squeegee
    • Keep the applicator off the ground; it picks up grit

    Mistake to avoid: Using the scourer side of a sponge or a blade on a stubborn mark. Glass scratches permanently, and the maker rules out scrapers and metal tools.

  5. Squeegee in one clean stroke

    Two minutes a pane

    Wipe the squeegee blade dry. Starting at the top corner, angle the blade so it just touches the glass and pull it across or down in one steady stroke, with the blade overlapping the frame edge slightly. Wipe the blade on a dry cloth after every stroke. Overlap each new stroke a little into the last dry strip. Finish with a stroke along the bottom edge.

    • Steady pressure and a steady speed, not fast
    • Wipe the blade after every single stroke
    • Small panes: a vertical pull top to bottom is easier than the side-to-side swoop

    Mistake to avoid: Lifting the squeegee halfway through a stroke. It leaves a line of water across the pane that dries as a streak.

  6. Detail the edges and corners

    A minute a pane

    Run a dry, lint-free microfibre cloth round the edges of the pane where the squeegee leaves a thin wet line, and dab any drips. Wipe the bottom of the frame and the sill dry. Look at the glass at an angle against the light to spot any smear and buff it with a dry cloth.

    • Wrap the cloth round one finger for the corners
    • Keep one cloth for edges and a different one for the frames
    • A dry cloth fixes most streaks; more water rarely does

    Mistake to avoid: Using a wet cloth or kitchen roll to finish. It leaves lint and wet arcs that dry as smears.

  7. Clean the frames and seals

    5 min per window

    Wash uPVC frames with water and a mild household detergent, as the window maker recommends at least once a year, and twice a year for aluminium in coastal areas where salt builds up. Rinse and dry them. Wipe glass cleaner or soap off the rubber gaskets. Never use solvents, abrasive cream or paint stripper on uPVC.

    • A dedicated uPVC cleaner sprayed onto a cloth, not the frame, is the gentler option
    • Dry the frame to stop drips running onto the clean glass
    • Look at the seals for splits while you are there

    Mistake to avoid: Using an abrasive cream on a stained uPVC frame. It scratches the surface, which then holds dirt faster.

  8. Look after the hinges and handles

    5 min per window

    With the window clean and open, wipe grit out of the hinges, the locking points and the handle mechanism. The maker recommends an acid-free oil, petroleum jelly or a silicone lubricant on the moving parts once a year, and not oiling the balance channels of sliding sash windows. Open and close each window to work it in and wipe off the excess.

    • A drop on each moving point is enough
    • Wipe off any oil that touches the glass
    • A stiff handle now is a broken one in a year

    Mistake to avoid: Spraying a household multipurpose oil all over the mechanism. Excess attracts grit and can mark the seals.

  9. Clean upstairs outsides from inside where the window allows

    5 min per window

    For tilt-and-turn or reversible windows, follow the window's own instructions to bring the outside pane within reach, keeping both feet on the floor. Wet, squeegee or wipe, and dry it as above. Do not lean out of the opening, kneel on the sill or override any restrictor fitted to stop falls. If the outside pane is not reachable this way, leave it for a window cleaner.

    • Close and lock the window fully when you finish
    • Keep children out of the room while the window is open
    • Use a cloth rather than a dripping applicator from inside

    Mistake to avoid: Leaning out to reach the far corner. A fall from an upstairs window is the most serious accident this job can cause.

The mistakes that leave streaks — or worse

  • Cleaning in direct sunlight, so the water dries before you squeegee
  • Too much soap in the bucket
  • Scrapers, blades or steel wool on the glass
  • Climbing a ladder to clean upstairs outsides
  • Leaning out of an upstairs window, or overriding a window restrictor

Stop here and get a window cleaner

  • Any outside pane above the ground floor that you could only reach by ladder
  • Windows above a porch, extension roof, conservatory, light well or stairwell
  • Roof windows and skylights
  • Misting between the panes, cracked glass or a window that will not close — that is a window repair
How to hire a window cleaner →

Streaks after squeegeeingToo much soap, a worn blade, or the water dried first. Use fewer drops of detergent, wipe the blade after every stroke, replace a nicked blade and work in shade.
Smears visible only in sunlightA soap film is left. Wash again with plain water and a squeegee, then buff with a dry microfibre cloth.
Water drips along the bottom edgeThe last stroke did not catch it. Finish each pane with a stroke along the bottom and dab the edge with a dry cloth.
Spots that will not wash offMineral deposits from hard water left to dry, or paint and plaster splashes. Soak and wipe gently; the window maker warns against blades on glass, so get advice before trying anything stronger.
Misty patches between the panesThe sealed unit has failed. Cleaning cannot reach it; the unit needs replacing.
Condensation on the inside every morningThe house has too much moisture. Ventilate after cooking and showers and wipe the glass and frames dry; condensation is a moisture issue, not a window fault.
Black spots on the seals and framesMould from condensation. Clean with mild detergent and dry; read the mould guide if it returns.
Fine scratches in the glassGrit dragged by a dirty applicator, or a scraper. They will not polish out; brush frames first and keep the kit clean.

WHAT YOU SAVE

What it costs to do it yourself

Window cleaning set with squeegee and applicator€8.99
Bucket€2.49
Microfibre cloths, pack of four€1.49
Washing-up liquid€0.99
Telescopic pole (optional)€56
Total€14–€70
DIY total€14–€70
A window cleaner charges per visit
LOW
€35
TYPICAL
€60
HIGH
€120
Window Cleaning price guide →

Guide prices compiled by the Locufy team from published Irish and UK provider price lists and 2026/27 cost guides. Updated 2026.

Everything except the pole costs less than one professional visit and lasts for years. A pole earns its place only if you have conservatory glass or windows you can genuinely reach from firm ground.

RATHER NOT?

Window cleaners near you, with prices shown

The ones who cover your area, nearest first, with one score from every review. No account needed to look.

Or post the job free and let them come to you.

Rinse and dry the kit

Rinse the applicator and wash the cloths without fabric softener, which leaves a film. Hang the squeegee by its handle so the blade stays straight.

Get rid of the water sensibly

A bucket of water with a few drops of washing-up liquid can go down an inside sink. Empty spray bottles go in the recycling bin; unwanted cleaning chemicals do not go in household bins and belong at your local civic amenity site — mywaste.ie lists them.

Keep the windows working

Lubricate hinges and locks once a year and clean uPVC frames at least annually, twice a year on aluminium near the sea.

Diary the next clean

Insides every couple of months, ground-floor outsides every season, and book a window cleaner for the upstairs outsides.

Cleaning windows from the ground and from inside: questions people ask

Water with a few drops of mild detergent such as washing-up liquid, a grit-free applicator or sponge, then a squeegee or lint-free cloth to dry. That is the procedure one Irish window maker gives.

Too much soap, a worn squeegee blade, or cleaning in sunshine so the water dries first. Use less soap, wipe the blade every stroke and work in the shade.

The window maker we checked says never to use scrapers, razor blades, steel wool or other metal tools on glass. Soak the spot and wipe it gently, or ask a glazier.

No. That is work at height with a bucket and both hands busy, which the HSA's ladder rules do not allow for. Clean them from inside if the windows tilt or reverse, or book a window cleaner.

The Locufy price guide puts professional window cleaning at €35–€120 per visit, typically €60. Bigger houses, conservatories and hard-to-reach glazing cost more.

Insides every couple of months and outsides every season is a good rhythm; more often near the sea or a busy road. Frames once or twice a year.

MORE GUIDES

More DIY guides

Cleaning solar panels you can reach from the groundWashing curtains at homePressure washing a driveway, patio and walls safelySpring-cleaning the jobs the weekly clean missesCleaning a whole house from top to bottom in a daySetting up a weekly cleaning routine you can keepBlitzing a home that has got on top of youDeep-cleaning a kitchen and bathroom
All 90 DIY guides →How to hire a window cleaner →Window Cleaning price guide →Window cleaners on Locufy →

Sources — checked October 2026

  1. Munster Joinery — care and maintenance: glass cleaning procedure, uPVC and hardware
  2. HG — uPVC cleaner: how to use
  3. HSA — using ladders safely
  4. HSA — cleaning work at height (ladders): risk assessment
  5. Irish Statute Book — S.I. No. 137 of 2019: window restrictors
  6. MyWaste.ie — chemicals and household hazardous waste
  7. Mr Price — price check: window cleaning set and squeegees, October 2026
  8. Mr Price — price check: buckets, October 2026
  9. Mr Price — price check: microfibre cloths, October 2026
  10. Mr Price — price check: washing-up liquid, October 2026
  11. B&Q Ireland — price check: telescopic window poles, October 2026