DIY GUIDE · GARDEN & OUTDOOR

How to build a low garden wall yourself
Two or three weekends for a 4 m wall, 600 mm high. £520–£615 in bricks, concrete, mortar and tools.

Check the rules, set out, cast a proper footing, lay to a line, cap it and let it cure. Retaining walls stop here.

DIFFICULTY
Hard
part of the job only
TIME
2–3 weekends
a day for set-out and footing, curing time, then a day or two of bricklaying for a short, low wall
MATERIALS
£520–£615
about 320 facing bricks, ballast, sand, cement, a brick trowel
A PRO CHARGES
£530–£2,200
typically £1,000
  • Every step, start to finish
  • Checked October 2026 — sources at the end
  • Honest about when to call a pro

FIRST, THE HONEST ANSWER

Do it yourself, or get a gardener?

Do it yourself if…

  • The wall is free-standing, low and holds back no soil at all
  • It is entirely on your own land, not on or astride a boundary you share
  • It will not carry a gate, a fence panel on top, or a heavy planter
  • You can be patient with a level and a line; neat bricklaying is slow at first

Get a pro if…

  • The wall would retain soil, even a little, on a slope or for a raised bed or terrace
  • It would be a party fence wall on a shared boundary, or close to a neighbour's building
  • It needs to be taller than the safe height for its thickness in your area, or carry a gate
  • It would be next to a road or pavement, near trees, or on soft or made-up ground

Safety first

  • Lift bricks, blocks and bags the way HSE's good handling guidance sets out: plan the lift, keep it close to your waist, no twisting, and get help for cement bags and full buckets.
  • Wear gloves and eye protection when mixing and laying; wet cement and mortar can irritate and burn skin, as the cement bag warns, so wash it off straight away.
  • Do not dry-cut bricks or blocks with a disc cutter; HSE treats cut-off saw work on masonry as high-risk silica dust. Use a bolster and club hammer, a splitter, or design the wall round whole bricks.
  • Wear safety glasses when cutting bricks with a bolster; chips fly.
  • Find drains, pipes and cables before digging the trench.
  • Keep children away from a new wall until the mortar has fully cured; a fresh wall is surprisingly easy to push over.

Stop here: Retaining walls, party fence walls, tall walls and gate piers

A retaining wall carries the weight of wet soil behind it and is designed by a structural engineer; when one fails, it falls on whatever is below. In England and Wales, a wall on or astride a boundary falls under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996, with notice to the neighbour before work starts. In England, planning permission is needed for a wall over 1 m next to a highway used by vehicles or over 2 m elsewhere; Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own rules. The Welsh Government's guidance warns that collapsing garden walls kill people more often than most masonry does; walls above its safe heights, or carrying gates, need expert design. How to hire a garden wall builder →

MATERIALCOVERAGEFOR THIS JOB
Facing bricksFrost-resistant for exposed sitesAbout 320 for a one-brick wall 4 m long, 600 mm high, with 10 per cent spare
Ballast and cement for the footingA 1:2:4 mix, as the walling maker suggestsOne jumbo bag of ballast and three bags of cement
Building sand and cement for mortarMixed to the cement maker's guidance; trial mixes recommendedOne jumbo bag of sand and four bags of cement
Coping or capping bricksTo shed rain off the topEnough for the length of the wall

How many bricks

A brick course with its mortar joint is about 75 mm high, and a one-brick wall uses about 120 bricks per m² of face. Bricks = length × height × 120, plus 10 per cent. A wall 4 m long and 0.6 m high is 2.4 m² of face, so 2.4 × 120 = 288 bricks, about 320 with spares. The footing is 3 × the 215 mm wall width, so about 650 mm wide.

These are planning figures for standard bricks with standard joints; check your brick's size, and order a little extra for cuts and breakages.

How high for how thick

The Welsh Government's guidance gives safe maximum heights by thickness and wind exposure across four zones. For a one-brick wall, 215 mm thick, it runs from 1450 mm in the most sheltered zone to 1075 mm in the most exposed; a half-brick wall, 100 mm thick, from 525 mm down to 375 mm. Seek expert advice above those figures. This guide keeps to low walls well within them.

Planning permission in England

Under the permitted development rules, a wall next to a highway used by vehicles needs planning permission if it is over 1 m high, and any other wall over 2 m. Listed buildings and conservation areas tighten that. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland set their own rules; check with the council.

The party wall rules

In England and Wales, building a wall on or astride the boundary line, a party fence wall, falls under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996, which means notifying the neighbour before you start. Keeping the wall wholly on your own land avoids that, but talk to them anyway.

Bricks and blocks

Facing bricks give the finished look on both faces of a one-brick wall. Frost-resistant bricks matter in an exposed garden. Concrete blocks are cheaper and faster but are usually rendered or clad, and need the same care with the footing.

The footing

The walling maker's guidance is a concrete foundation at least three times the width of the wall, at least 100 mm deep once the soft topsoil is removed, in a 1:2:4 mix of cement, sand and aggregate. On clay or poor ground, dig deeper to firm subsoil.

Movement joints and coping

Long walls need vertical movement joints, which the walling maker puts at every 6 m to 10 m. A coping or brick-on-edge capping on top throws rain off the face; walls without one soak, freeze and crumble from the top down.

Buy all the bricks you need in one delivery and mix packs as you lay, so colour variation is spread through the wall.
Design the length to whole bricks where you can; every cut is slower and weaker than a whole brick.

THE PART THAT DECIDES THE FINISH

Before you build — by where the wall will stand

The ground and the position decide the footing and whether this stays a DIY job. Find your case.

Firm ground inside your garden

Level, well-drained soil, away from boundaries and trees.

  1. Set out the line of the wall with pegs and string
  2. Mark the trench three times the wall's width, centred on the line
  3. Dig out the topsoil and down to firm subsoil
  4. Check the trench bottom is level along its length before pouring
On or near a boundary

Where your garden meets a neighbour's.

  1. Confirm exactly where the boundary is before setting out
  2. Keep the whole wall and its footing on your own land, or follow the Party Wall etc. Act in England and Wales
  3. Talk to the neighbour about the height and finish
  4. If they want a shared wall, that is a party fence wall job; see the Stop here card
Clay soil or near trees

Ground that shrinks, swells or is full of roots.

  1. Dig deeper to get below the zone that dries and swells
  2. Cut roots cleanly rather than tearing them, and avoid large ones
  3. Keep well away from large trees; roots lift and crack walls as trees grow
  4. If you are unsure how deep to go, get advice before pouring
Sloping ground

A fall along the line of the wall.

  1. Step the footing in level sections rather than pouring it on a slope
  2. Make each step a whole number of brick courses high
  3. Overlap the steps by at least the footing's own depth
  4. If the wall would hold back soil on the high side, it is a retaining wall and stops here
Rebuilding an old, failing wall

Crumbling, leaning or cracked.

  1. The Welsh guidance says to seek expert advice for a lean above 30 mm on a half-brick wall or 70 mm on a one-brick wall
  2. Hairline cracks of up to 2 mm are common; wider ones need advice
  3. Do not repoint over cracks before finding their cause
  4. Taking down a tall or leaning wall is dangerous; prop it and get help

THE JOB

How to build a low garden wall, in order

  1. Check the rules and set out

    2 hr

    Work through the height, planning and party wall points above for your nation and your boundary. Then set out the line of the wall with pegs and a string, and mark the footing trench either side of it, three times the wall's width. Check the line against the boundary and any drains or cables.

    • Use a long tape and a builder's square for corners
    • Set profile boards beyond each end so the line can be re-strung after digging
    • Photograph the set-out against the boundary

    Mistake to avoid: Building first and checking the boundary later. A wall a few centimetres over the line becomes a neighbour dispute.

  2. Dig the footing trench

    4 hr

    Dig the trench to the full width, removing all topsoil and going down to firm, undisturbed subsoil. Keep the sides vertical and the bottom level along its length, checked with a long level on a straight board. On a slope, dig it in level steps.

    • Drive level pegs into the trench bottom to mark the top of the concrete
    • Do not backfill soft spots with loose soil; dig them out and fill with concrete
    • Keep the spoil away from the edges of the trench

    Mistake to avoid: Pouring concrete onto topsoil. It compresses unevenly and the wall cracks within a year.

  3. Pour and level the footing

    3 hr

    Mix concrete of 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 4 parts aggregate, or use ballast with cement in the proportions on the bag, and fill the trench to the level pegs. Work it into the corners and tamp it with a length of timber to remove air, then strike it off level. Leave it to cure before bricklaying.

    • Mix in batches you can place in under an hour
    • Cover the footing with polythene in hot sun or frost
    • Keep the top of the footing below the finished ground level

    Mistake to avoid: Leaving the footing rough and out of level. The first course of bricks has to make up the difference, and the joints end up uneven.

  4. Mix the mortar

    20 min

    Mix the mortar to a consistent, workable texture using the proportions on the cement bag for bricklaying, and keep every batch the same. The cement maker recommends trial mixes to find the best proportions. Mix only what you can use in about an hour.

    • Measure sand and cement by the bucket, not the shovel
    • Add water gradually; mortar should hold its shape on the trowel
    • Throw away mortar that has started to stiffen; do not re-water it

    Mistake to avoid: Varying the mix from batch to batch. The joints dry in different colours and strengths along the wall.

  5. Set out the first course dry

    30 min

    Lay the first course of bricks dry on the footing along the string line, with finger-width gaps for joints, to check the bond works to whole bricks. Mark the brick positions on the footing, then lift them off.

    • Adjust the joints slightly to avoid a sliver of brick at the end
    • Plan where any movement joint falls
    • Check the line is directly above the centre of the footing

    Mistake to avoid: Starting to lay in mortar without a dry run. The last brick needs cutting to a thin, weak piece.

  6. Build the ends first

    1 hr

    Lay a bed of mortar and set the end bricks of the first few courses at each end of the wall, building them up in a stepped pattern called a lead. Check each brick for level, plumb and height against the gauge rod. The ends set the line for everything between.

    • Check the leads are plumb on both faces and on the end
    • Use the gauge rod at every course
    • Keep the leads only a few courses higher than the rest of the wall

    Mistake to avoid: Laying a whole course end to end without leads. The wall wanders and the courses drift out of level.

  7. Fill in to the line

    4 hr

    Stretch the builder's line between the leads at the top of the next course and lay the bricks between them to the line. Butter one end of each brick, press it into the bed, and tap it level with the trowel handle, keeping it just off the line. Scrape off squeezed-out mortar as you go.

    • Keep the line tight; a sagging line makes a sagging wall
    • Check level every few bricks, plumb at the ends
    • Stagger the joints by half a brick, course by course

    Mistake to avoid: Pushing bricks against the line. It bows outwards and the wall follows it.

  8. Point the joints

    1 hr

    When the mortar is firm to the thumb but not hard, finish the joints with a jointer or the edge of a pointing trowel, doing the vertical joints first, then the horizontal. Brush off loose crumbs once the joints have stiffened a little more.

    • Point at the same stage of set all along the wall for an even look
    • A slightly recessed or bucket-handle joint sheds water well
    • Keep mortar off the brick faces; it stains

    Mistake to avoid: Pointing while the mortar is wet. It smears into the brick faces and never comes off cleanly.

  9. Add movement joints and coping

    1 hr

    On a long wall, leave a vertical joint free of mortar at the planned positions and fill it with a compressible filler and sealant later. Finish the top with a coping or a brick-on-edge capping bedded in mortar, which sheds rain away from the face of the wall.

    • Choose a coping that overhangs the wall slightly with a drip groove underneath
    • Bed the capping on a full bed of mortar
    • Check the top course is perfectly level before capping

    Mistake to avoid: Leaving the top of the wall uncapped. Rain soaks the top courses, frost blows the faces off, and the wall crumbles from the top down.

  10. Cure and protect

    Ongoing

    Protect the new wall from frost, heavy rain and hot sun for several days while the mortar cures, covering it with hessian or polythene held clear of the face. Keep loads, people and planters off it until it has fully hardened. The walling maker advises leaving blockwork for a minimum of 6 weeks before applying any facing to it.

    • Do not lay bricks in frost or let fresh work freeze
    • Remove mortar stains only once fully dry, with a stiff brush
    • Backfill round the footing once the wall is firm

    Mistake to avoid: Leaning a fence panel or planter against it the next week. A wall gains strength slowly, and a fresh one is easily pushed over.

The mistakes that bring a wall down

  • A footing too narrow, too shallow, or on topsoil
  • Building taller than the safe height for the thickness
  • No coping, so water and frost get in from the top
  • Using a free-standing wall to hold back soil

Stop here and get a garden wall builder

  • The wall would retain soil on any side, even for a low raised bed or terrace
  • It is a party fence wall on a shared boundary, or close to a neighbour's building
  • It needs to be taller than the safe height for its thickness, or carry a gate, fence or heavy planter
  • The ground is soft, made-up or full of tree roots, or an existing wall is leaning or cracked
How to hire a garden wall builder →

Courses not levelFirst course not set level, or the gauge rod not used. On a low wall it is often quicker to take the courses down while the mortar is fresh and relay them.
Wall leaningA soft or narrow footing, or building away from the line. The Welsh guidance advises expert advice above a lean of 70 mm on a one-brick wall; a new wall that leans needs rebuilding.
White salts on the bricksEfflorescence, salts carried out as the wall dries. It usually fades; brush it off dry, and do not wash it in.
Mortar crumbling out of the jointsMortar too weak, mixed inconsistently, or frozen before it cured. Rake out and repoint in mild weather with a consistent mix.
Cracks appearingMovement, a weak footing or no movement joints. Hairline cracks up to 2 mm are common; wider ones need the cause found before any repair.
Faces of bricks flakingFrost damage from water getting in, often through an uncapped top. Fit a coping, and use frost-resistant bricks for any rebuild.
Mortar stains on the bricksMortar smeared while wet. Let it dry, then brush off with a stiff brush; use a masonry cleaner only as its label directs.
Green growth on the wallDamp and shade. Improve the coping, clear soil and plants away from the base, and brush it off; it does no structural harm.

WHAT YOU SAVE

What it costs to do it yourself

Facing bricks, about 320£288–£352
Ballast for the footing, one jumbo bag£75
Cement for the footing, three bags£22.50–£25
Building sand for mortar, one jumbo bag£75
Cement for mortar, four bags£30–£34
Brick trowel£11–£19.50
Spirit level£13.50–£29
Builder's line£5–£5.75
Total, 4 m wall£520–£615
DIY total£520–£615
A garden wall builder charges per project
LOW
£530
TYPICAL
£1,000
HIGH
£2,200
Garden Wall Building price guide →

Guide prices compiled by the Locufy team from published Irish and UK provider price lists and 2026/27 cost guides. Updated 2026.

Bricks are most of the cost and vary widely by type; the tools last for years. Add delivery for bulk bags and the cost of disposing of the dug-out soil.

RATHER NOT?

Garden wall builders near you, with prices shown

The ones who cover your area, nearest first, with one score from every review. No account needed to look.

Or post the job free and let them come to you.

Let it cure fully

Keep loads, planters and people off it while the mortar hardens, and protect it from frost in the first days.

Dispose of spoil and waste properly

Take dug-out soil, broken bricks and hardened mortar to the household waste recycling centre, checking its rules on soil and rubble, or use a skip; never wash cement or mortar residue into a drain.

Inspect it each year

Look for loose copings, crumbling joints, cracks and lean, as the Welsh guidance recommends for all garden walls, and repair small faults early.

Clean the tools straight away

Wash trowels, buckets and the mixer before mortar sets on them; dried mortar ruins a trowel's edge.

Building a low garden wall: questions people ask

The walling maker's guidance is a concrete footing at least 100 mm deep once the topsoil is removed, and at least three times as wide as the wall. On clay or poor ground, go deeper to firm subsoil.

For safety, the Welsh Government's guidance gives maximum heights by thickness and exposure: 1450 mm to 1075 mm for a one-brick wall depending on your zone. For planning in England, 1 m next to a road used by vehicles and 2 m elsewhere.

In England and Wales, a wall on or astride the boundary is a party fence wall under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996, and you must notify your neighbour. A wall wholly on your own land avoids that.

Not usually; fences, walls and gates do not need building regulation approval, but the Welsh guidance stresses they must still be structurally sound and maintained.

This guide stops before it. A wall that holds back soil carries far more load than a free-standing one and needs engineering; get a professional.

The Locufy UK price guide puts garden wall building at £530–£2,200 per project, typically £1,000. Height, length and the footing move the price most.

MORE GUIDES

More DIY guides

Laying a small patioBuilding and filling a raised bedPutting up a garden shedClearing an overgrown gardenPlanting a borderKeeping a garden maintainedMowing a lawnFeeding and treating a lawn
All 90 DIY guides →How to hire a garden wall builder →Garden Wall Building price guide →Garden wall builders on Locufy →

Sources — checked October 2026

  1. GOV.WALES — building regulations: fences, gates and garden walls (safe heights by thickness and zone)
  2. Marshalls — walling installation details: footing width and depth, concrete mix, movement joints
  3. HSE — manual handling: good handling technique
  4. HSE — construction dust: cutting blocks, kerbs and flags
  5. Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, Schedule 2 Part 2 — gates, fences and walls
  6. GOV.UK — party walls and building work
  7. GOV.UK — recycling collections and your council
  8. Wickes — price check: facing bricks
  9. Wickes — price check: ballast
  10. Wickes — price check: cement (and the maker's product notes)
  11. Wickes — price check: building sand
  12. Wickes — price check: brick trowels
  13. Wickes — price check: spirit levels
  14. Wickes — price check: builder's lines