DIY GUIDE · CLEANING

How to clean a patio yourself
A dry weekend day. €36–€65 in patio cleaner, a stiff broom and jointing sand.

Sweep, weed the joints, test, scrub with patio cleaner, rinse, then re-sand once dry.

DIFFICULTY
Easy
no licence needed
TIME
A day
for a typical back-garden patio, plus a dry day afterwards before re-sanding
MATERIALS
€36–€65
a 5-litre patio cleaner, a stiff outdoor broom, a bag of jointing sand, gloves and goggles
A PRO CHARGES
€100–€300
typically €160
  • Every step, start to finish
  • Checked October 2026 — sources at the end
  • Honest about when to call a pro

FIRST, THE HONEST ANSWER

Do it yourself, or get a cleaner?

Do it yourself if…

  • The patio is concrete slabs, block paving, porcelain or a sound natural stone
  • The problem is green algae, moss, general grime and the odd stain
  • You can get a hose to it, or carry buckets of water
  • You have a dry spell for cleaning and another dry day to re-sand

Get a pro if…

  • It is a large driveway, a raised deck or paving with many loose or rocking slabs
  • It is soft sandstone or a delicate natural stone and you do not know the type
  • There are deep oil or rust stains you have already tried to remove
  • The surface is resin-bound or tarmac with its own care rules

Safety first

  • Patio cleaners can be irritants, acids or biocides. Wear gloves and goggles, follow the label for protective clothing, and work in a well-ventilated area, as one paving maker advises.
  • Never mix cleaning products; the HSA warns that bleach mixed with certain other cleaners gives off a harmful gas.
  • The HSA's cleaning guidance notes splashes cause eye irritation and burns; keep goggles on while scrubbing and diluting.
  • Keep children and pets off the patio until it has been rinsed and dried.
  • Wet algae on paving is very slippery; wear wellingtons with grip and work backwards away from treated areas.
  • Lift heavy pots and furniture with help, bending your knees.

MATERIALCOVERAGEFOR THIS JOB
Patio cleanerDiluted as its label says, tested firstOne 5-litre bottle for a typical patio
Kiln-dried jointing sandBrushed into dry joints after cleaningOne bag for most patios
Absorbent granules or cat litterFor fresh oil spillsA small bag

How much cleaner you need

Bottles ≈ patio area in m² ÷ the coverage on the label. Measure the length and width of the patio and multiply. Example: a 5 × 4 m patio is 20 m²; with a cleaner whose 5-litre bottle covers, say, 25 m² at the dilution you need, one bottle is enough, with some left for the steps and paths.

Heavily soiled or very green areas take more product, and a second treatment on lichen doubles it there. Coverage varies widely between products, so read yours.

Start with the gentlest method that works

An Irish paving maker sets out four levels of cleaning: regular dry brushing for general dirt; a stiff bristle brush and a garden hose when paving has gone dull; a power washer on a medium setting or lower for stubborn areas; and cleaning detergents, used as their maker says and rinsed fully. Another says that regular cleaning means no need for power-washing or chemicals, which may degrade the surface with continued use.

Patio cleaners — read what they are

Patio cleaners vary from mild detergents to acids and biocides. One paving maker warns that some detergents are acidic and overuse can damage paving. Read the label for which surfaces it suits: acids are for acid-resistant concrete and porcelain, never limestone or marble. One cleaner maker's method is to wet the tiles first, mix the cleaner with water in a bucket, scrub it in with a stiff broom, leave it a few minutes and rinse before it dries.

Algae, moss and lichen

Green algae and moss come off with a fungicidal patio cleaner and scrubbing. One paving maker says to treat algae and moss with an appropriate water-based fungicide after testing it on a hidden area, then brush or scrape off the dead moss. Lichen — the white or black spots — grows into the surface; it may need several treatments before it can be scraped off, and the longer it is left, the harder it is.

What not to use

Do not use sulphate of iron on paving for moss: one maker says it stains. Do not use bleach on coloured paving unless the paving maker allows it, and never mix it with a patio cleaner. And do not leave acid cleaners to dry on the surface; the maker's own instructions always end with a thorough rinse.

Efflorescence — the white bloom

A patchy white deposit on newer concrete paving is efflorescence: lime from the cement reacting with moisture. Both makers say it is natural and does no structural harm. One says it weathers away naturally over time and advises against acid cleaners because they can permanently damage the surface; the other allows a commercial acidic washing agent applied to paving soaked first with clean water, then rinsed. Patience is the safer choice.

Jointing sand

Brushing and hosing will not usually wash the sand out of the joints, but scraping weeds and any power-washing will. One maker says to top up joints only in dry conditions with kiln-dried jointing sand, because joints that are not full let the paving move and water wash out beneath it, causing slabs to settle.

Test every product on a small, hidden area first — both paving makers say so.
Wear the protective clothing the cleaner's label asks for, and keep children and pets off until it is rinsed.

THE PART THAT DECIDES THE FINISH

Preparing the patio — by the paving you have

Find your paving below and do its preparation before any cleaner comes out. If you do not know what it is, treat it as natural stone and test first.

Concrete slabs and flags

Most Irish patios: cast concrete flags with a textured or riven face.

  1. Sweep thoroughly with a stiff broom, including the edges and corners
  2. Scrape the worst moss out of the joints with an old knife or a weeding tool
  3. Lift and check any slab that rocks; it needs re-bedding, not cleaning
  4. Test the patio cleaner on a slab in a corner and let it dry before judging
Block paving

Small interlocking concrete blocks with sand-filled joints.

  1. Sweep along the joints, not across, so you do not pull the sand
  2. Pull weeds out by hand; spray what is left with a weedkiller in dry weather
  3. Check for sunken areas, which mean the sand bed has washed out
  4. Have a bag of kiln-dried jointing sand ready for afterwards
Porcelain paving

Thin, very hard, smooth or lightly textured tiles on a mortar bed.

  1. Sweep and rinse; porcelain does not absorb dirt, so most comes off easily
  2. Check the patio cleaner says it suits porcelain
  3. Scrape algae out of the joints with a plastic scraper
  4. Look for cracked or hollow-sounding tiles; they need a paver
Natural stone: limestone, sandstone, granite

Riven or sawn stone with natural colour variation.

  1. Find out which stone it is; limestone and marble are damaged by acid cleaners
  2. Choose a cleaner that says it is safe for that stone
  3. Test on a hidden flag and wait until it is dry
  4. Use the softest brush that works on sandstone, which wears easily
Patio with oil, rust or barbecue stains

Dark patches by the barbecue, rust rings from pots and furniture.

  1. Do not wipe fresh oil; one maker says that drives it into the concrete and spreads it
  2. Blot fresh oil with paper towels, cloth or absorbent granules straight away
  3. Move pots and furniture off the stains
  4. Plan to treat stains before the general clean

THE JOB

How to clean a patio, in order

  1. Identify the paving and test

    15 min

    Use the surfaces section above to work out what your patio is made of. Read the patio cleaner's label to confirm it suits that paving. Then test it on a small, hidden area — a slab under where the barbecue stands, or a corner — exactly as you will use it, rinse it and let it dry. Both paving makers recommend a trial on a small inconspicuous area before any cleaning.

    • Let the test dry fully; wet paving always looks darker
    • Look for colour change, etching or a rough feel
    • If you are unsure of the stone type, assume it is acid-sensitive

    Mistake to avoid: Spraying an acid cleaner over a limestone patio without testing. It etches the surface and the shine never comes back.

  2. Clear, sweep and scrape the joints

    45 min

    Move pots, furniture and the barbecue off the patio. Sweep thoroughly with a stiff broom, getting into the corners and along the walls. Then work along the joints with an old knife or weeding tool to scrape out moss and pull weeds, roots and all. Sweep up what you lift. This is the slow part, and it makes the cleaner far more effective.

    • Bag weeds and moss for the brown bin
    • Kneel on a pad; this is a lot of kneeling
    • Note slabs that rock or sound hollow

    Mistake to avoid: Cleaning over the moss. The cleaner treats the top, the roots stay in the joint, and it is green again by spring.

  3. Treat oil and rust stains first

    20 min

    For oil, one maker says to blot rather than wipe, then apply a degreaser as soon as possible — neat washing-up liquid is a start while you get a proper one — and, if it persists, brush on an emulsifying degreaser and leave it as its label says before washing away with plenty of water. For rust marks, use a product made for rust on paving, tested first.

    • Work stain treatments into the surface with a stiff hand brush
    • Rinse each stain area well before the general clean
    • Old stains may only fade, not vanish

    Mistake to avoid: Scrubbing a fresh oil spill with a wet brush. It spreads the oil over a bigger area and deeper into the concrete.

  4. Wet the patio

    10 min

    Hose the whole patio down evenly, including the joints, and sweep away any puddles. Most patio cleaners work on a wet surface and the water stops an acid cleaner soaking straight into dry concrete; one cleaner maker's method begins with wetting the tiles. Do it on a cool, overcast day so the surface does not dry out while you work.

    • Wet only the section you can treat in the next few minutes on a warm day
    • Do not leave puddles; they dilute the cleaner
    • Keep pets and children indoors from now until the final rinse

    Mistake to avoid: Applying cleaner to dry paving in the sun. It soaks in unevenly and dries in patches, leaving blotches.

  5. Apply the cleaner and scrub

    1 hour

    Mix the cleaner in a bucket at the dilution on its label — wide enough to dunk the broom. Work in sections of a few square metres. Dunk the broom, scrub the cleaner into the slabs and joints in two directions, leave it the few minutes the label says, then scrub again. Do not let it dry on the surface; if a section starts to dry, wet it again or rinse.

    • Work from the house outwards so you never kneel or step on treated paving
    • Give shady, green areas more scrubbing time
    • Lichen: treat, leave, and expect a second round another day

    Mistake to avoid: Letting the cleaner dry in the sun to save effort. Dried acid or detergent residue streaks and can mark the paving.

  6. Rinse thoroughly

    30 min

    Rinse each section with plenty of clean water as you finish it, sweeping the water towards a drain point or a lawn edge. One maker says the run-off should go to drainage points or containers where it can be disposed of safely; keep it out of ponds and away from plants the label warns about. Rinse until the water runs clear and there is no foam left.

    • A watering can is fine if you have no hose
    • Rinse walls and steps that got splashed
    • Sweep standing water off so it dries evenly

    Mistake to avoid: A quick rinse. Cleaner left in the pores keeps working on the surface and attracts dirt.

  7. Deal with what is left

    30 min

    When the patio is dry, look again. Dead moss and loosened lichen scrape off now with a plastic scraper. Remaining green patches may need a second application on another day. A white bloom on newer concrete is efflorescence; one maker advises letting it weather away naturally rather than reaching for acid. If a power washer is needed for stubborn areas, read the pressure-washing guide first.

    • Sweep up and bag the scrapings
    • Photograph problem slabs to track them
    • Leave lichen another week before a second treatment

    Mistake to avoid: Attacking white efflorescence with brick acid. It can permanently damage the surface, and the bloom often comes back anyway.

  8. Re-sand the joints in dry weather

    45 min

    Wait for a dry day with the paving fully dry. Pour kiln-dried jointing sand onto the patio and brush it diagonally across the joints with a soft broom until they are full to the top. Sweep off the surplus. One maker says to inspect joints once or twice a year and after cleaning, and top them up only in dry conditions, because unfilled joints let the paving move and settle.

    • Damp sand will not flow into the joints; wait until it is dry
    • Brush across the joints, not along them
    • Lightly mist the patio afterwards to settle the sand, if the bag says to

    Mistake to avoid: Re-sanding on a damp day. The sand clumps on the surface, the joints stay half-empty and weeds return in weeks.

  9. Protect it from now on

    15 min

    Brush the patio regularly — the makers' first line of cleaning is regular sweeping by hand. Clear leaves before they rot into the joints, keep pots on feet so they do not leave rust rings, and blot oil spills at once. On shady patios, one maker suggests a suitable weedkiller or fungicide two to three times a year. A paving sealer, chosen for your paving, makes future cleaning easier.

    • Sweep weekly in autumn when leaves fall
    • Lift pots onto feet
    • Read the sealer's own instructions before applying it

    Mistake to avoid: Leaving autumn leaves on the patio all winter. They rot into a slimy layer that feeds the algae.

The mistakes that damage patios

  • Using acid cleaners on limestone, marble or other acid-sensitive stone
  • Letting the cleaner dry on the surface
  • Using sulphate of iron on paving for moss, which stains
  • Wiping fresh oil instead of blotting it
  • Leaving the joints empty after cleaning

Stop here and get a patio cleaner

  • Slabs are loose, rocking or sinking — that is re-bedding, not cleaning
  • The stone is delicate or unknown and a test patch changed its colour or texture
  • Deep oil or rust stains have not shifted after a proper treatment
  • The area is too big to scrub by hand and you do not want to use a pressure washer
How to hire a patio cleaner →

The patio went green again within weeksThe moss roots stayed in the joints, or the area is very shady. Scrape the joints thoroughly, treat with a fungicidal cleaner and re-sand; a sealer slows regrowth.
White patches appeared after cleaningEfflorescence drawn out by water, or dried cleaner residue. Rinse well; efflorescence usually weathers away over time.
Light and dark patches across the patioThe cleaner dried unevenly or was applied to dry paving. Wet the whole patio and clean it again evenly, rinsing as you go.
The surface feels rough or etchedAn acid cleaner was too strong for the paving. Stop using it; this damage will not reverse.
Joints washed out and weeds are backThe sand went with the scraping or rinsing. Re-sand in dry weather with kiln-dried sand.
Black spots that will not moveLichen, which grows into the surface. Treat again and leave it, then scrape; it can take several rounds.
Orange stain where the iron was usedSulphate of iron stains paving. It is very hard to remove; try a rust-stain remover tested first.
Dark oil patch by the barbecueBlot, apply neat washing-up liquid, then an emulsifying degreaser left as its label says and rinsed with plenty of water. Old stains may only fade.

WHAT YOU SAVE

What it costs to do it yourself

Patio cleaner, 5 litres€15–€27
Stiff outdoor broom€12–€23
Jointing or paving sand, one bag€4.95–€10.55
Rubber gloves€1.49
Safety goggles€3.05
Total€36–€65
DIY total€36–€65
A patio cleaner charges per job
LOW
€100
TYPICAL
€160
HIGH
€300
Patio Cleaning price guide →

Guide prices compiled by the Locufy team from published Irish and UK provider price lists and 2026/27 cost guides. Updated 2026.

The broom and goggles last for years, so a second clean costs only the cleaner and some sand. Regular sweeping and clearing leaves is free and does most of the work.

RATHER NOT?

Patio cleaners near you, with prices shown

The ones who cover your area, nearest first, with one score from every review. No account needed to look.

Or post the job free and let them come to you.

Let it dry fully before re-sanding

Then brush jointing sand in on a dry day and sweep off the surplus.

Dispose of the waste properly

Weeds, moss and leaves go in the brown bin. Unused patio cleaner, weedkiller and other garden chemicals are hazardous and do not go in household bins: bring them to a civic amenity site that accepts them, or a local authority hazardous waste day — mywaste.ie lists both.

Store the products safely

Keep cleaners upright, capped, out of children's reach and away from frost, in their original containers.

Clean the kit

Rinse the broom and bucket with clean water so cleaner residue does not harden in the bristles.

Cleaning a patio by hand with a brush and patio cleaner: questions people ask

Sweep, scrape the joints, wet the paving, scrub in a patio cleaner diluted as its label says with a stiff broom, leave it a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. The paving makers prefer this gentler route.

Scrub in a fungicidal patio cleaner, tested first, and rinse. Shady patios may need a treatment two or three times a year; sealing the paving slows the growth.

Only if the paving maker allows it, and never mixed with a patio cleaner. Many coloured slabs fade with bleach; test on a hidden slab first.

Efflorescence, a natural lime bloom from the cement. The makers say it does no harm and weathers away over time; one advises against acid cleaners because they can damage the surface.

The Locufy price guide puts professional patio cleaning at €100–€300 per job, typically €160. Large areas, re-sanding and sealing cost more.

After cleaning, on a dry day when the paving is fully dry. One paving maker suggests checking joints once or twice a year and topping up with kiln-dried sand.

MORE GUIDES

More DIY guides

Pressure washing a driveway, patio and walls safelyCleaning windows from the ground and from insideCleaning solar panels you can reach from the groundWashing a loose rug at homeSpring-cleaning the jobs the weekly clean missesCleaning a whole house from top to bottom in a daySetting up a weekly cleaning routine you can keepBlitzing a home that has got on top of you
All 90 DIY guides →How to hire a patio cleaner →Patio Cleaning price guide →Patio cleaners on Locufy →

Sources — checked October 2026

  1. Roadstone — paving laying and maintenance guide: cleaning levels, stains, efflorescence, moss
  2. Kilsaran — maintenance of block and flag paving: sweeping, joints, algae, lichen, efflorescence
  3. HG — patio-tile cleaner: how to use
  4. HSA — Safety in Contract Cleaning: chemicals, splashes and mixing
  5. MyWaste.ie — garden chemicals
  6. MyWaste.ie — garden waste
  7. B&Q Ireland — price check: patio cleaner, October 2026
  8. B&Q Ireland — price check: stiff brooms, October 2026
  9. B&Q Ireland — price check: paving and jointing sand, October 2026
  10. B&Q Ireland — price check: safety goggles, October 2026
  11. Mr Price — price check: rubber gloves, October 2026