DIY GUIDE · PLUMBING & HEATING · CHECKED OCTOBER 2026
How to replace a shower head, hose and riser rail yourself
An hour or two. £6–£25 for a hose or head, £13–£25 for a riser rail kit.
A furred head, a tired hose or a loose rail. Hand-tight parts and two screws — the valve and the electrics stay as they are.
- Every step, start to finish
- Checked October 2026 — sources at the end
- Honest about when to call a pro
FIRST, THE HONEST ANSWER
Do it yourself, or get a fitter?
Do it yourself if…
- The head sprays unevenly, dribbles or spits, and descaling has not fixed it
- The hose leaks at either end, is split, or the flow has dropped although the valve is fine
- The rail is loose, cracked, or the slider no longer grips
- You are replacing like with like on the same outlet and in the same holes or tiles
Get a pro if…
- The shower valve or mixer itself leaks, sticks, or will not hold temperature
- It is an electric shower and the fault is in the unit, the cable or the pull switch
- There is a shower pump, or you want one fitted to boost the flow
- Water is getting behind the tiles, into the ceiling below, or round the tray
Safety first
- On an electric shower, switch off at the pull cord and at the consumer unit before you touch anything on or near the unit. The head and hose are safe to change; the unit's cover is not to be opened.
- Before drilling tiles for a rail, check for pipes and cables behind them. Supply pipes to the valve often run straight up or down from it, and a hole through a pipe behind tiles means the tiles come off.
- Wear safety glasses when drilling tiles. Glazed tile chips fly, and a slipping bit skates across the surface.
- Stand on a sound, dry surface when fixing a rail high on the wall — not on the edge of a bath. Step out and use a step-up if you cannot reach.
- Showerheads and hoses that sit unused collect scale and slime where bacteria can grow. HSE's guidance on hot and cold water systems treats showerheads and hoses as something to dismantle, clean and descale; in a house, run a little-used shower through for a few minutes before stepping in.
Stop here: Stop here: the valve, the pump and an electric shower's wiring
Fitting a new shower or pump is water fittings work: notice to the water supplier is required before fitting any booster pump that draws over 12 litres per minute, under regulation 5 of the 1999 Water Fittings Regulations in England and Wales, and the Scottish Water byelaws and Northern Ireland's 2009 Water Fittings Regulations set their own equivalents. A shower valve fed from an unvented cylinder falls under requirement G3 and Approved Document G in England, with the other nations' building regulations to the same effect. An electric shower is in a special location: in England a new circuit or alterations around a bath or shower are notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations; Wales applies its own Approved Document P and never exempts bathrooms; Scotland works to building standard 4.5 and the wiring regulations, with a building warrant needed for some work; Northern Ireland's building regulations have no Part P-style notification for home wiring, but the work still needs a competent electrician. How to hire a shower installer →
| MATERIAL | COVERAGE | FOR THIS JOB |
|---|---|---|
| Shower hose | Half-inch threads, water approved, with washers | One, about the length of the old one |
| Shower head | Suited to your shower's pressure and type | One, if descaling has failed |
| Riser rail kit | Fixing centres to match the existing holes if possible | One |
| Wall plugs or cavity fixings | Matched to the wall behind the tiles | Two, plus spares |
Is the hose long enough — and not too long
Hose length needed = height of the outlet above the tray or bath rim − 25 mm clearance, kept by the retaining ring. If the outlet is 1,100 mm above the bath rim, any hose the ring stops 25 mm above the rim is safe; a 1.5 m hose with the ring fitted is fine.
The figure that matters is not the hose length but where the ring stops the head. Fit the ring every time.
An electric shower, a mixer on a combi or an unvented system, and a mixer on a gravity tank all deliver very different pressures. A head sold for low pressure has fewer or wider nozzles; a high-pressure head on a gravity system gives a weak, fine spray. Some electric showers need the maker's own head because the head is part of how the unit vents. Check the shower unit's instructions before buying a universal head for it.
Hoses come in lengths from about 1.25 m to 2 m and longer. Longer is not better. The shower fittings maker we checked supplies a hose retaining ring and requires the head never to drop below the spill-over level of the bath or tray, with a minimum gap of 25 mm. If a long hose lets the head lie in the bathwater, dirty water can be drawn back into the supply. Choose a length that reaches comfortably and fit the retaining ring.
Shower hoses in Britain almost all use the same half-inch thread at both ends, with a cone or flat end at the head and a nut at the outlet. Each end has a flat washer, and some have a flow regulator in the washer seat. Keep the old washers and regulators until you are sure the new hose has its own.
A riser rail has two wall brackets. Measure between the old screw holes before buying: a rail with the same fixing centres goes on in the existing holes, with no new drilling of tiles. One maker's guide gives its fixing centres as 635 mm for a replacement rail. Adjustable rails exist for odd spacings; buy one of those rather than drilling two fresh holes.
A head that sprays sideways is often just furred with scale. Soft rubber nozzles can be rubbed clear with a thumb, and the whole head soaked in a descaler or vinegar. Try that first. Only replace the head if the nozzles are damaged or the internal plate is cracked.
Hoses and heads are water fittings. Look for a recognised water approval on the packaging; an unapproved hose may lack the check device or retaining ring that stops back-siphonage, and the water fittings rules apply to what you connect to the supply.
THE PART THAT DECIDES THE FINISH
Before you start — the wall and the shower you have
The head and hose come off by hand on every shower. The rail is where the wall matters. Find your case.
Tiled wall over solid masonry
The commonest case; the rail screws into plugs in the tile and the wall behind.
- Reuse the existing holes if the new rail's centres match; clean out old plugs and fit new ones
- For new holes, stick masking tape on the tile and mark through it so the bit does not wander
- Drill tiles with a tile bit on a slow speed with no hammer action, then change to a masonry bit for the wall behind
- Run a bead of sanitary silicone into each hole before the plug goes in, to keep water out of the wall
Stud wall or plasterboard behind the tiles
Hollow sound when tapped; common in newer bathrooms and extensions.
- Ordinary plugs will pull out; use cavity fixings rated for the load or find the timber studs
- Check behind the stud wall for pipes, which often run horizontally in notches
- Seal every hole with silicone; water in a stud wall rots it silently
- Do not overtighten; a cavity fixing crushes tile and board if forced
Shower panels or laminated wall boards
Smooth plastic or laminate panels rather than tiles.
- Follow the panel maker's guidance for fixings; some need a specific fixing and a pilot hole
- Drill slowly with a wood or HSS bit, not a masonry bit
- Seal the hole and the fixing to keep water behind the panel out
- If the panel flexes when pressed, find the battens behind it for the brackets
Electric shower
A box on the wall with its own heater, a pull-cord switch and a cable.
- Switch off at the pull cord and at the consumer unit before working near the unit
- Use the head and hose the unit's maker specifies, or one the instructions say is compatible
- Never fit a flow restrictor in the outlet of an electric shower; the maker's guide warns the fittings may act as its vent
- Do not open the unit's cover; inside is mains wiring and the work is notifiable around a shower
THE JOB
How to replace the head, hose and rail
Set up: shower off, the right case found
10 minTurn the shower off. On an electric shower, switch off at the pull cord and at the consumer unit. Read the case card for your wall and shower type above. Put the plug in the bath or tray so nothing small goes down the waste, and lay a towel in the bottom to catch a dropped head.
- Photograph the rail and brackets so the new one goes back the same way
- Note the shower's model if it is electric or a mixer valve
- Keep children out of the bathroom while you drill
Mistake to avoid: Leaving the plug out. A hose washer or a grub screw dropped into the waste is gone, and many new hoses have only one spare.
Descale the head before deciding to replace it
20 minUnscrew the head from the hose by hand. Rub the soft rubber nozzles with your thumb to flick the scale out; the shower fittings maker recommends a thumb or soft cloth so the nozzles are not damaged. Soak the head in descaler or warm white vinegar, rinse it, and refit it. If it sprays evenly, stop there.
- Never use a pin in the nozzles; it widens them and the spray goes ragged
- Some heads have a removable face plate held by a central screw; take it off for a thorough clean
- Avoid abrasive cleaners on chrome and plastic; mild washing-up liquid is enough
Mistake to avoid: Scrubbing the head with a scourer or bathroom cleaner. Abrasive and acidic products ruin the plating, and the head looks worse than the scale did.
Remove the old hose
5 minGrip the hose near the outlet and unscrew it anticlockwise by hand; do the same at the head end. Look in each end for the flat washer and any flow regulator. Check the hose for kinks and, if the flow had dropped, for a collapsed inner lining — the maker warns that internal collapse restricts the flow and can damage the shower.
- If a hose nut is stuck, wrap it in a cloth and use grips gently; the chrome marks
- Keep the old flow regulator if the new hose has none
- Rinse grit out of the outlet's thread before fitting the new hose
Mistake to avoid: Losing the flow regulator from the old hose. On some showers it sets the flow rate, and without it the shower behaves differently.
Fit the new hose
5 minCheck the new washer, and the flow regulator if there is one, is in the end of the hose. Screw the hose onto the outlet clockwise by hand, holding it near the nut. The maker's own instruction is that hand tight is enough and no tools should be needed. Fit the cone end into the head and screw it up the same way. Slide the retaining ring onto the hose before connecting it if the rail does not have one fixed.
- Hand tight means firm; a spanner crushes the washer and splits the plastic nut
- Run the shower and check both ends for drips before going further
- If the hose twists in use, unscrew a turn at the head end and let it untwist
Mistake to avoid: Tightening the hose with grips to stop a drip. A drip at a hand-tight joint means a missing or folded washer, not a loose nut.
Take down the old rail
15 minLoosen the grub screws on the brackets and slide the rail off. Then undo the wall screws and take the brackets away. Pull out the old plugs with a screw driven a few turns into each and a pair of pliers. Clean the old silicone from around the holes.
- Look behind each bracket for cracked tiles; a crack round a hole lets water in
- If the old plugs crumble, the hole may need a slightly larger plug
- Wipe the tiles dry; the new fixings need a dry hole
Mistake to avoid: Pulling old plugs out with the drill. The bit catches the plug and the tile around it, and a cracked tile means retiling.
Mark and drill only if the holes do not match
20 minIf the new rail's centres match the old holes, skip the drilling. If not, hold the rail at its new height with a level, mark through masking tape, and drill the glaze with a tile bit on a slow speed without hammer action. Change to a masonry bit for the wall behind. Check for pipes first: supply pipes often run straight up from the valve.
- Keep at least one tile width away from the valve's vertical line
- Drill the tile, not the grout; a hole in grout lets the plug rotate and loosen
- Hoover the dust out of each hole before the plug goes in
Mistake to avoid: Using hammer action on tiles. The glaze shatters round the bit and the bracket no longer covers the damage.
Fix the new rail
20 minSqueeze a little sanitary silicone into each hole, push the plug in, and screw the brackets on with the screws flush to the bracket's inner edge, as the rail maker's guide describes. Fit the clamp bracket, retaining ring and slider on the rail, then slide the rail into the brackets, check it with the level, and tighten the grub screws.
- Do not overtighten the wall screws; a cracked tile under the bracket shows later
- Point the head to spray across the cubicle, not at the door or the valve
- Check the retaining ring holds the head at least 25 mm above the spill-over level
Mistake to avoid: Fitting the rail without the hose retaining ring. The head then hangs into the bath, and dirty water can be drawn back into the supply.
Test and seal
20 minRun the shower hot and cold for a few minutes. Watch both hose joints and the rail brackets with dry tissue. Check the slider holds the head at every height and the spray clears the cubicle opening. Once everything is dry, run a small bead of sanitary silicone round the top and sides of each bracket base, leaving the bottom open so water can drain.
- Let the silicone cure for its stated time before using the shower
- A shower that runs at a few drips after closing is normal for a short time
- Clean the tile round the brackets before sealing; silicone does not bond to soap film
Mistake to avoid: Sealing all the way round each bracket. Water that does get in has no way out and sits behind the bracket on the screw.
The mistakes that show
- Replacing a head that only needed descaling
- Using a spanner on hand-tight hose nuts
- Leaving out the hose retaining ring
- Drilling tiles with hammer action, or drilling the grout line
- Fitting a flow restrictor to an electric shower's outlet
Stop here and get a plumber
- The shower valve or mixer leaks, sticks or will not hold its temperature
- The fault is inside an electric shower unit, its cable, or its switch
- A pump is being added or replaced to boost the shower
- Water is getting behind the tiles, round the tray or into the ceiling below
| WHAT YOU SEE | WHY, AND THE FIX |
|---|---|
| Shower head spraying sideways | Scale in some nozzles. Rub them with your thumb and soak the head in descaler. If the face plate is cracked, replace the head. |
| Shower hose leaking at the connection | The flat washer is missing, folded or hard. Unscrew by hand, fit a new washer, and screw up hand tight again — do not reach for a spanner. |
| Water pressure dropped after fitting a new head | The head is a high-pressure design on a low-pressure system, or the old flow regulator went into the new hose. Refit the right regulator or choose a head for low pressure. |
| New hose kinks and twists | The hose is too long for the rail, or a swivel end is tight. Shorten the reach with the retaining ring and loosen the head end a turn. |
| Riser rail loose on the wall | The plugs have turned in the holes, often because they were drilled in grout. Refix with new plugs in the tile, or move the bracket a few millimetres to fresh tile. |
| Water coming from behind the rail bracket | The holes were not sealed. Take the bracket off, dry the hole, fill it with sanitary silicone, refix and seal the top and sides. |
| Slider will not hold the head up | The clamp's friction pad has worn or the grub screw is loose. Tighten it, or replace the slider from the rail's maker. |
| Electric shower cuts out after a new head | The new head restricts the flow too much for the unit. Fit the head the unit's maker specifies. |
WHAT YOU SAVE
What it costs to do it yourself
| Shower hose | £6–£15 |
|---|---|
| Shower head | £9–£25 |
| Riser rail kit, if replacing the rail | £13–£25 |
| Sanitary silicone, if resealing brackets | £8–£10 |
| Total, head and hose only | £6–£25 |
| DIY total | £6–£25 |
Guide prices compiled by the Locufy team from published Irish and UK provider price lists and 2026/27 cost guides. Updated 2026.
A plumber's guide price is for installing a shower. Changing the head, hose or rail yourself costs only the parts; the saving is close to the whole call-out.
RATHER NOT?
Shower installers near you, with prices shown
The ones who cover your area, nearest first, with one score from every review. No account needed to look.
Or post the job free and let them come to you.
In a hard-water area, rub the nozzles every week or two and soak the head every couple of months. A clear head keeps the flow up and stops the unit working harder.
A guest shower that sits for weeks should be run hot for a few minutes before use, with the bathroom door shut and the window open, to clear stale water from the head and hose.
Old hoses and heads are mostly metal and plastic; take metal-braided hoses and chrome rails to the metals skip at your council's household waste recycling centre and put plastic heads in general waste. Find your centre through your council's website or the recycling pages for your nation.
Look at the silicone round the tray and the bracket bases. Black, lifting sealant lets water into the wall, and resealing is far cheaper than a ceiling.
Replacing a shower head, hose and riser rail: questions people ask
Rub the rubber nozzles with your thumb to clear scale, then soak the head in descaler or warm vinegar. If the face plate is cracked or the nozzles are torn, replace the head with one suited to your shower's pressure.
Not always. Some electric showers need the maker's own head or one listed as compatible, because a restrictive head can make the unit overheat or cut out. Check the unit's instructions first.
No. Shower hoses seal on a flat washer in each end. Tape stops the washer seating evenly. If it drips, change the washer.
Hand tight. The shower fittings maker we checked says no tools should be needed. A spanner splits the plastic nut or crushes the washer.
It stops the head dropping below the rim of the bath or tray. One maker requires at least 25 mm clearance so the head cannot sit in dirty water and siphon it back into the supply.
Locufy's UK price guide puts shower installation at £325–£1,200 per install, typically £550 — the same three figures as the strip at the top of this page. Changing a head or hose yourself costs only the part.
MORE GUIDES
More DIY guides
Sources — checked October 2026
- Mira Showers — L16H shower fittings installation and user guide: retaining ring, 25 mm gap, fixing centres, pressures
- Mira Showers — how to fit your shower hose
- HSE — legionella: things to consider in hot and cold water systems (showerheads and hoses)
- HSE — electrical safety: frequently asked questions
- Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, regulation 5 — notice for pumps over 12 litres per minute
- Water Supply (Water Fittings) (Scotland) Byelaws Extension Order 2024
- Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2009
- gov.uk — Approved Document G: sanitation, hot water safety and water efficiency (England)
- gov.uk — Approved Document P: electrical safety in dwellings (England)
- gov.wales — building regulations: electrics
- gov.scot — Building Standards Technical Handbook 2022 (domestic), standard 4.5 electrical safety
- gov.uk — recycling collections: find your council (England and Wales)
- mygov.scot — find your council's recycling centre (Scotland)
- nidirect — recycling and reusing (Northern Ireland)
- B&Q — price check: shower heads
- B&Q — price check: shower hoses
- B&Q — price check: shower riser rails
- B&Q — price check: sanitary silicone